Objekte für den 3D-Druck

Just a quick re-scetch from a picture i found online. Not accurate due to scale yet a nice keychain. Have fun :)

The fidget toy using the compliant mechanism principle, print in place , prints quickly, has no extra parts and requires only a little grease to work properly. Can be used as a torture tests

This is version 2 of tires with tread for Loona the Pet Robot. Mirror imaged tread and printed in TPE. It gives her more traction enabling her to cross the transition between tile and carpet easier.

Karosseriehalter für alternative Karosserien. Am besten aus TPU drucken. Zur befestigung benötigt mann noch Schrauben, Muttern und ggf. Unterlegscheiben.

Beetle inspired Oni mask I made in blender

Garmin lily 2 smartwatch Cradle including band holders, a charger slot and a custom slot for the watch rim.

The Drain Tray, NPT Part, and Drain Tray Part 2 all go together. I used superglue to bind them and then used gorilla sealer spray to coat and waterproof the entire interior. You can also use a 1/2" NPT female connector made of metal from Amazon as an alternate. It may provide a more secure connection.

The cutting guide is used to support the horizontal bars while cutting them with a dremel carbon reinforced disk. The guide also has a line to help ensure the correct cut.

The outer shell and insert work with one another. The outer shell is secured to the outer metal frame and the horizontal rods slide into the outer shell's aligned holes. I use a 2mm drill bit to refine the holes on the outer shell before fitting it with the horizontal bars. To create the holes for the M2 screws that will secure the outer shell to the frame, I drilled the four holes with a 1.6mm drill bit and then tapped it with a 2mm tapping bit.

After that, you just drop the scale into the insert, and slide the insert into the shell.

Human muzzle rounded style, original design, straps not included.

You can follow a tutorial like this to make the T strap: https://youtu.be/Q8osO75fL18?si=eWeh0qqiOQuJhj4_

Measurements may not be 100% correct and piece strenght was not taken into account.

I can tweak the model for free. Message me!

Human muzzle box style, original design, straps not included

You can follow a tutorial like this to make the T strap: https://youtu.be/Q8osO75fL18?si=eWeh0qqiOQuJhj4_

Measurements may not be 100% correct and piece strenght was not taken into account.

I can tweak the model for free. Message me!

Window Arch and frame from Timbologist on thingverse.
Playmobil Castle wall with arch castle windows; notice, I couldn't cleanly get the cut out tool to cut the individual window squares. Would be fine with me if someone else who has a steadier hand with a Dremel tool should try to delete the square spaces in the frames,

Have fun either way, if you decide you like the solid windows, you could paint a dark glossy paint or distress the area meant for window glass to be dirty or scuffed like antique glass.

This object was made in Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hcZIahnTusI

These are to make replacement smoke machines for the Atomic Robot from the '80s.
It fits all the New Bright robots, but some may be different. Which is why there are two of one side. One of them should work.
You can watch the video here...
https://youtu.be/BCDsAO63DHg

So huge thanks to Caliandrias and Nan_1 for providing the things for me to hack!

I modified the central plate ('NeoPixel_Label.stl') in the NeoPixel Ring 24 Stand so that I could mount an oled panel in it. In my use case, I use esphome & Home Assistant, and the NeoPixel ring lights the left hand half circle of 12 LEDs in various colours from yellow to red as grid power is consumed, and on the other side the 12 LEDs represent how much power is being generated by my solar panels in colours from blue to green, with each LED rounded to the nearest 1kW up to 12kW eg 8 lit LEDs indicates somewhere from 7500 to 8499W. The central display currently just shows the actual solar being generated, but I might change that to cycle through other info such as total solar generated etc.

Note that all I did was get the display frame and, using Tinkercad, lay that over the central plate and use the 'hole' option to effectively punch a hole through the plate for the screen. Speaking of which, I also had to slightly change the size of the plate as my screen was slightly smaller than the one used in the original frame.

It is designed to hold 2 inch shot glass with the holes being sized at exactly 2 inches.
the screw holes are made for .3 inch diameter screw heads.
i made this for myself and figured id share

I drew this up for my family's wagons to help color code the keys.

I have a W8, wife has a V6 4mo and youngest daughter has a 1.8t

Its from the technical drawing you can find online. Nothing fancy like a body kit or wing or coilovers, though I am planning to do those later.

Also mine has roof rails

Merhabalar arkadaşlar uzun uğraşlar sonucu internette para karşılığında satılan bu duvar lambasını oluşturup sizlere ücretsiz bir şekilde sunuyorum. İmkanı olan herkes indirip bu ürünü satabilir ve kendince değişiklikler yapabilir. umarım memnun kalırsınız diğer arkadaşların paylaştığı gibi baskı bilgileri paylamamamın sebebi ise tam olarak herhangi kişisel bir ayar kullanmadan tamamen creality k1 ile gelen uygulamaya yerleşim yaptıktan sonra destekleri yerleştirip baskı aldım. umarım mutlu olur sevdiklerinizi mutlu edersiniz

This is a plug with a flange that is shaped like the plug of a jack cable, for instance a guitar cable. You can protect your connectors from dust, or block them from having a cable plugged into them, with this model.

The plastic clips for the horn cover on select models of the Porsche 944, 924, 968, 911 and 928

BMW e87 e81 professional radio volume control

Volume control knob, menu
two files. one simplified, the second as close to the original as possible.

BMW e87 e81 business radio volume control
Volume control knob.
two files. one simplified, the second as close to the original as possible.

Source files https://github.com/smcgonigle/deej/

Project based on https://github.com/omriharel/DEEJ

Case based on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4888445

Parts List:

• Mini / Type-C / Micro USB Nano 3.0 With the bootloader compatible Nano controller for arduino CH340 USB driver 16Mhz ATMEGA328P

• 5Set WH148 Potentiometer 15mm 3pin with Black Aluminum Alloy Knob Cap 1K 2K 5K 10K 20K 50K 100K 250K 1M Linear Potentiometer Kit

• 10Pcs SPST Snap-in Toggle Switch ON Off 2 Pin Round Rocker Boat On/off Switch AC 3A 250V 6A 125V for Car Auto Boat Switches

• 40 / 120pcs 40PIN 20CM Dupont Line Male to Male + Female and Female to Female Jumper Dupont Wire Cable For Arduino DIY KIT

Protective shell replacements for front and rear optics of ZEISS 7x40 NVA German military binoculars.

Easy to print, no support. Shell is much more compact and sleek comparing to originals, designed for more intense practical use. No extra parts required - simply mount printed parts using stock retention rings.

The front shell is functional as is, but I'd recommend to also print the front insert with standard 52mm photo filter thread, to be able to mount front yellow, UV protective or polarizing filters.

Printed with PLA and precisely tuned sizing on my Zeiss 7x40 NVA binoculars, the view is much easier with these eyecups, and I made edges rounded for comfort. You may want to print eyepiece shells from more soft material though.

I really like this design but just needed a little extra. I added a box to the side for a c usb plug and a on off switch. I used a 40x40x10 12v noctura fan so it's really quite. I used Tinkercad.com for the mods and I made it a hollow as I could to save on resin and make it lighter. when printing I added holes in CHITUBOX slicer to help drain resin and lesson the suction force on the fep.

Modification to the Dual Z Axis mod so that you can point the motor on the inside of the frame to support a Dual Z axis setup.

Haven't tested yet but figured this is a worthwhile additional as some designs and modifications of the ender 5, like the Mercury one can benefit from Dual Z axis but contain most parts within the frame.

Links to Mercury one: http://docs.zerog.one/manual/build/mercury_eva

Mount for the Bluetooth remotes offered by AliExpress (links below)

Uses a M6 bolt with 10mm diameter head to replace the steam cap

Printed in ABS to reduce warping, printed as the file appears

Version I purchased:

https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005005908351893.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.4b8218026B1Jcs&gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm

Alternative (same dimensions and waterproof):

https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/32956829538.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.13.50cb5745Ta46TY&algo_pvid=bff05092-a981-4089-a78b-23a9bc65702b&algo_exp_id=bff05092-a981-4089-a78b-23a9bc65702b-6&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%217.33%217.33%21%21%215.19%215.19%21%402101ec1f17220531722134991ee8f9%2112000015967787889%21sea%21CA%211854968856%21&curPageLogUid=4tOQfhxfzNUb&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Underframe for an HO scale 40-foot boxcar. Designed to fit an Athearn boxcar, but should be adaptable to other manufacturers. The bolster boss on the underframe of one of my cars mushroomed (could not fit washers to set the coupler height) and the frame seemed to generally be in marginal condition, so I designed this to replace it.

The frame and other pieces can be used as-is, or combined with 0.025 in diameter phosphor bronze jewelry wire representing the air lines and brake rigging.

Modeled based on these sources: 1 and 2

As noted elsewhere the original Athearn underframe is "backwards," something I've tried to fix.

The jewelry wire is a bit too big to be true to scale, but it's what I had on hand and working with smaller wire would likely be too much of a challenge for me.

The brake detail components were bonded to the underframe with model cement. The two halves of the train line were soldered together. The line from the AB valve to the train line was also soldered.

The designs of the various components include features to facilitate incorporating the wire (e.g. the underframe includes slots for the two halves of the train line to be rotated into position and there a holes in the brake cylinder, AB valve, and air resevoir).

If I were to do this again, I'd modify how the AB value is connected to the train line in order increase the clearance between that line and the rod connecting the floating lever to its truck.

Two different versions of the underframe are provided. Version 6 is the same as version 5, except that the draft gear box geometry has been slightly improved. Version 5 is provided as that's the one I've taken all the way to completion.

This is a grip for garden hose connections. It makes it easier to turn the ring.

One version is for an octagonal fitting, the other for a knurled round fitting.

It is in OpenSCAD so you can tweak the thickness or connector size.

I used a heat gun to warm up the knurled fitting a bit to press it on. I got lucky on the octagonal one, it pressed on easy. You could also make it a little larger and use glue.

Peace.

Magazine Shell for CZ 457. This clamps around a polymer 10 rd magazine to create a better looking profile. Loading the magazine is also easier with this shell. There is a spot to put a 6mm diameter x 2mm thickness magnet to help keep the 2 halves together.

I have not tested this on any stocks other than the wood Royal stock. Please let me know if you tried it on another stock and any changes that you would like.

Printed in black PETG material.

A week's worth of meds in a compact package (75mm diameter) . A 12mm x 3mm N52 neodymium magnet and a 10mm M5 hex head bolt hold the two halves together and attach the assembly to your fridge. You'll never forget where you left your meds again! The magnet needs to be glued into place with a drop of CA (super) glue (make sure it's fully seated on the bottom by giving it a tap and then holding it under pressure for 20 seconds). The bolt should be threaded into the lid until it's about the same dimension, or a little less, than the depth of the magnet. The container has eight compartments; one for each day of the week and one that's empty as an index (embossed bullseye). Detents align the aperture with each compartment and prevent the lid from randomly rotating. The detents are a bit stiff at first and require a few revolutions to "break-in". Alternately, a little candle wax rubbed on the hemispherical nubs on the bottom of the lid works well.