Objekte für den 3D-Druck
Nahezu täglich stellen dort unzählige Enthusiasten neue nützliche 3D-Objekte aus den Bereichen Kunst, Haushalt, Hobby, Schmuck, Bildung sowie Werk- und Spielzeug vor. Neben einer mehr oder weniger ausführlichen Beschreibung und Bebilderung stehen meist auch die druckbaren STL-Dateien kostenfrei zum Download bereit.
HINWEIS: Vor einer kommerziellen Nutzung von 3D-Objekten sollte man trotz der Kostenfreiheit im Sinne der fairen Nutzung des Designs immer den Kontakt zum Ersteller suchen und eine Art Lizenz- bzw. Nutzungsgebühr für das Design aushandeln.
Auf dieser Seite findet ihr eine Übersicht der 30 neuesten Objekte auf Thingiverse (in englisch):
34 mm width,
12.3 mm height
Polycarbonate filament highly recommend for strong model.
Remix of PNelson's Technics SL models tonearm lock, updated to match the Technics 1200.
It works perfectly and is very satisfying to use as the tonearm snaps nicely into place with just enough force.
Printed in PLA, with just a bit of cleanup required.
I redesigned this hook to both improve the general look and feel to more seamlessly blend in with the general design of the Segway Ninebot Scooter and I also wanted to make it stronger and more effort to remove.
This hook can easily handle a dynamic load of 35lbs (16kg).
Note: All parts are optional
1x Apple Airtag
2x M3x4mm (5mm diameter) threaded heat inserts
2x M3x8mm flat heat screws
1x 34mm OD x 31mm ID (1.5mm wide) O-Ring
thread lock (eg Loctite Threadlocker)
The threaded inserts go in at an awkward angle. I found it easiest to use a regular soldering iron with a pointed tip and place the threaded insert on that until hot and either quickly (extremely quickly because brass cools very fast) use a pair of bent plies to get the insert partially into the hole and use the soldering iron to finalize placement or just use the soldering iron exclusively
Screws must have a flat head with a taper to create a snug fit that is flush. M3x8mm is really the only size that will fit correctly
Since the airtag is IP67 which means it can survive being in water for up to 30 minutes, the O-ring isn't strictly necessary however this should prevent any water from getting in at all. This goes around the airtag cover
the airtag fit in only one way with the metal/battery cover in first which will hold it in place.
Installing the Bag Hook
As I mentioned in the description, this is intended to be much more involved to remove the hook which means it's much harder to install.
- remove all 6 screws holding the handle bars to the post
- Remove the handle bars and disconnect the connector cable.
- Place the Bag Hook on the post (note this is a very tight fit so depending on the acurary of your printer or filament you may need to upscale the design by 101-102% in your slicer). Next
- Re-connect the connector cable (the connector is keyed so it will only attach at the correct orientation, do not force it)
- Fit the handlebars back onto the post
- screw in the TOP most 3 screws (right, left, front) only leaving the bottom 3 screws empty (note you can use thread lock on these screws but because the Bag Hook will cover them and prevent them from backing out it's not strictly necessary).
- Raise the Bag Hook so that the screw holes line up with the empty screw holes in the post
- Use a thread lock on the bottom 3 screws to prevent them from vibrating loose and insert them into the remaining 3 bottom holes and tighten until snug
I would strongly recommend a filament that is UV stable so that prolonged sun exposure does not cause the plastic to deteriorate. ABS or ASA are good choices for this. I used Prusament ASA Jet Black at 50% infill.
caddex Ratel camera and Runcam thumb mounts. Youll need to chop off the front of the top plate to work.
You'll need 2 m2 screws and nuts for the thumb mount
Neat little device I made to enhance your Stiiizy experience! Works great to cool down vapors and create a much smoother and even hit. You can fill the chamber with water and also put ice cubes in the mouth piece! There is a carb on the chamber to clear out any vapor and get fresh air.
Included there's a mouth piece extension that I made for use when I was sick. Since I share the print with others, thought I would spare them too much germ contamination. Thought I'd include it here for anyone that might want it.
NOTE: THIS WORKS WITH BOTH 0.5G AND 1.0G PODS. HOWEVER, THE NOZZLE FIT ON 1.0G PODS IS LOOSER AND YOU HAVE TO HOLD THE STIIIZY IN PLACE WHEN IN USE. 0.5g pods fit fine and the Stiiizy is held in by the nozzle just fine without additional support.
I've included .STL and .OBJ files. The OBJ file is rotated for some reason. Definitely orient it where the bottom of the rig is on the bed/raft.
If you print this, please share! I'd love feedback, comments, and to see your print!
This project aims to be a massive improvement in every way over the concept originally created by startknop. Though it is inspired by his work, it is created from scratch ;). The STEP files are freely available, as they should be. The project will continue to be updated with the parts as it progresses.
Link to the original and significantly inferior design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5764845
Kenner Mask Wildcat discs, tow arm and gun and the tow hook. Not perfect replicas but good enough to make the toys useful again. Print in PETG for max durability.
Replacement deep charge base and laser gun for Kenner Mask Gator. Not a perfect replica but it does work.
Quick work in progress. still has room for improvement, but printable with a 0.4mm nozzle with at least 0.2mm horizontal expansion. will probably work better in resin or with a 0.2mm nozzle
Stiletto windshield and bomb. Not perfect but they do fit and make these old toys useful again. I used PETG for maximum durability.
Small stash box to hold various things. It is small but could be scaled up if you have a larger printer than i do.
This is not an exact replica of the original parts how ever they do fit and work as intended. Flip the door in your slicer to fit the other side. Once again print in PETG for maximum durability.
Created a remix of the original XT60 Cap to add a hole for an 8mm x 3mm magnet to be glued in the bottom. This allows you to store them on a metal surface when not in use. Below is a link to the 8mm x 3mm magnets I use.
8mm x 3mm Magnets:
I have an old Harbor Freight space heater (Chicago Electric model 94777) that stopped oscillating, it turned out the plastic piece that connects the motor to rest of the mechanism was broken. After several attempts at gluing it back together only to have it break again, I found "Fan Oscillating Part" by The3dprinter. It was close to what I needed, but didn't quite fit.
I'm terrible at TinkerCAD, so this isn't exactly a remix, I redesigned it from scratch in OpenSCAD and made it parametric. The defaults are based on the actual measurements of the broken piece I removed from the heater. I used the "remix" feature here to give credit since it was The3dprinter's part that inspired me to make this.
Printed with an Ender 3 with eSun PLA+ at 230C, 50% cooling fan and 100% infill. You can probably get away with using any other filament and settings you would normally use for part that needs to stand up to a (very) little bit of stress.
I made these because I couldn't find anything that would let me display my racing helmets in different positions .
I wanted to be able to have them facing where I wanted and be able to move them easily , and not cause any damage inside or out .
I just glued the caps on , less complicated
If someone wants the file for the longer one let me know , ( I just can't find it right now )
Remix of 4747586 by oreservado
The cable holder was a bit loose so I knocked a hole in the wall to run a cable tie through.
1-Comience la impresión.
2-Detenga la impresión después de la primera capa o dos. La mayoría de las impresoras te permitirán hacer esto. En un Makerbot, use la opción "Cambiar filamento" del menú, esto detiene la impresión y quita el cabezal de impresión.
3-Coloque la malla suavemente sobre la impresión. Use cinta adhesiva o clips para sujetar los bordes hacia abajo.
4-Reanudar la impresión.
Deje que termine y estará listo para comenzar a coser.
This is a remix from the designs: Ender 5 Foldable Monitor by erdemsenler and Ender 5 LCD Relocate with back cover by Soundless.
I have an Ender 5 Pro.
I wanted the LCD to be slanted so it's easier to read and the cover to be on a hinge instead of in a fixed position so I can move it out of the way if I need to manually calibrate the bed or if the need rises for some reason.
I include two versions of the LCD cover: one with the hinges on the left and one with the hinges on the right. You decide which one you prefer to print :).
For the hinge I used two 20mm M3 screws. One screwed from the top down and the other one screwed from the bottom up.
I used the screws and t-nuts from the stock LCD cover to hold the LCD inside the case and to hold the hinge against the rail.
I also include the STEP files from Fusion 360.
The LCD ribbon cable I used is from Amazon. You just need one of the cables.
When looking for a LCD cable to replace the stock one with, keep in mind there are three types. The one the Ender uses is Type B.
The raspberry pi case I used is this one:
This design is to enable film scanning of Kodak's Disc Film from the 1980's using the Kodak Slide N Scan Digital Film Scanner. Use the settings for Color Negative > 110 Film.
Refer to the picture for orientation of the film in the holder. In order for to to work and not be a mirror image, it will scan it in upside down which you can easily flip in any graphic software.
Here is the link to the Kodak Slide N Scan : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084NVRHYQ
Having trouble organizing your remote controls for your T.V or speakers? Here is the Remote Rangement. A handy dandy tool to organize your remote controls so that they aren't all over the place. This organizer comes with four slots for you remote controls, and two cup holders for pencils, drinks, etc. Hope you enjoy it.