Objekte für den 3D-Druck
Nahezu täglich stellen dort unzählige Enthusiasten neue nützliche 3D-Objekte aus den Bereichen Kunst, Haushalt, Hobby, Schmuck, Bildung sowie Werk- und Spielzeug vor. Neben einer mehr oder weniger ausführlichen Beschreibung und Bebilderung stehen meist auch die druckbaren STL-Dateien kostenfrei zum Download bereit.
HINWEIS: Vor einer kommerziellen Nutzung von 3D-Objekten sollte man trotz der Kostenfreiheit im Sinne der fairen Nutzung des Designs immer den Kontakt zum Ersteller suchen und eine Art Lizenz- bzw. Nutzungsgebühr für das Design aushandeln.
Auf dieser Seite findet ihr eine Übersicht der 30 neuesten Objekte auf Thingiverse (in englisch):
This is a shorter tray that fits the Breville Nespresso Model: BEC220xxx
I was frustrated that my normal coffee mug would not fit this coffee machine. The tray that was supplied by the manufacturer it too tall to accommodate a regular sized coffee mug so I designed this one to work with normal sized mugs. The perforated insert that comes with the maker fits nicely in the tray and doesn't shake loose, but still easy to remove to clean.
It prints with one support in the back that can be tricky to remove. Be careful when removing this support so you don't break the tabs that secure the tray to the machine.
Do you have the Sword of Darkness and the Dragon Dagger? Don't have a place to hang them? Now you have one place to hang them both! In the same place!
There are recessed screw holes in the back to add strength to the arms.
Hang the mount with some 3M strips with the "D" at the bottom.
The sword sits on the "D" shaped part. The dagger sits in front with the mouth piece facing the sword. It is supported on the triangle and the long peg. See Picture for hanging position.
Attach to the bottom of your seat using zip ties. Supports not needed, Infill up to you, may need to rotate the model, seems to like to upload upside-down.
I bought 9 rings filled with 241 LEDs and decided to make a case for it. I have included the 3ds Max file (2023 version) if you want to alter it or make it better. I bought the ring set here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083VWVP3J
I also wrote a piece of Arduino starter code with each of the rings put in an array and added a few example patterns. The code is pretty well notated, but feel free to ask me about it if you have questions. I am by no means a pro at coding, but I can usually eek by.
I printed the cover and the base in black with .2mm resolution and 25% infill and it seems solid enough. For the white diffuser plate, I printed it at .1mm resolution and 100% infill (but at .7mm in height, I doubt that mattered)
I also de-soldered the wires that came with the LED rings and re-wired it to clean it up (see image above). To match the code within this Thingi, the outside ring should have the main Din, then just chain down the line to the center LED.
This is a remix of The Rocket spool holder XL. That uses the stock Ender3 hardware to move the filament roll from the top of the machine to the side.
It works great if you have the stock extruder, it solved ALL of my filament feeding issues !
Plus it is a shameless plug for my start up Youtube channel.
( I printed this @ 50% infill, but I'm sure 20% infill would be fine.)
THis is a straighter version of the other stand, so it shows better on a shelf. its also thinner so it prints faster
- print base from previous design
- print one of each of the files either the stls or 3mf
I love using my Icom IC-7100 for portable HF, but I've struggled to secure my LDG IT-100 tuner to the radio body.
These brackets attach to the radio body with M4 screws. The tuner floats between the brackets and I used a little adhesive backed felt to hold the tuner in place. Dimensions for the IT-100 tuner are 6.5 inches by 6.5 inches by 1.25 inches tall.
The gap between the brackets when assembled is 5.5 inches. These brackets will not hold a Z-100Plus tuner, which is smaller. I can work another set of brackets up for the Z-100Plus if there is an interest.
This post is going to be about a mathematical print titled IFS using CMM tile. The main design for this print is using a specific type of tile categorized as CMM. This tile is used as the basis to create the iterative function system (IFS) which was then printed. The alias I will be using is GMUMath401Student1. The purpose of this print is to fulfill an assignment of Math 401: Mathematics Through 3D Printing at George Mason University due September 28th, 2022.
IFS are a significant part of nature as they are in the structures of snowflakes to plants to shells. There are third main components to creating an iterative design they are scale, rotation, and translation. Scale pertains to how large the next iteration will be with respect to the previous one. If the value is greater then 1 then the iterations are increasing in size and if they were less than 1 then they are decreasing. With rotation, the iterations will be rotated the same degree with respect to the previous iterations. With translations there is a difference in that it just tells where the functions will be situated. In a 2D iterative function system, there will only be 2 dimensions for each component, while with 3D there will be 3.
In the pictures I have included, there is a table illustrating how this specific IFS was created. Since this is a 3D IFS, there will be 3 values in the scale, rotation, and translation columns. This system did not rotate so the values in that column were all 0s. The scaling was consistent for each dimension and function which were reduced by 40% with each iteration. The values in the translation column are where the functions will be placed at each of the triangles of the original tile. When I tried to use the original tile coordinates, I found that the first iteration was too small. So, I kept the translations coordinate the same but scaled the original tile by a factor of 2 so that now it would be twice as large. I found this would work by looking at the example code from class.
There was no need for any supports as the iterations were just stacked on top of the previous ones with no rotations. This print took a little less than 3 hours to print on the Ultimaker printer. We used a raft to make sure that the design didn’t move around while the layers were being printed. The print turned out well the first time. The pictures of the print, the code, STL, etc. are included. A website that helped me with my IFS design is cited below.
Classic Iterated Function Systems. (March 30, 2022). Retrieved September 25, 2022, from http://larryriddle.agnesscott.org/ifs/ifs.htm
This is a minimalistic case for the TTGO LoRa32 V1 where it just fits the board and the antenna. It has a loop for a carabiner in order to hang it. It also covers the reset button, so it can be pressed. The other button is flush enough that it won't press itself in your pocket.
print the STL or m3f file. it contains all of the parts.
place the button in the hole from the inside
wrap the antenna cable aound the screen and fit the board to trap the button
place the antenna in the hole
- close lid
board bought from here
I couldn't find any spool holders I liked so decided to design my own. I really wanted something sleek and modern without having to "clip" around the frame and i didn't want it to be bulky.The roller assembly is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020026 that I shortened to fit the 65mm 2kg rolls better and because of the location of my printer it gave me more clearance to swap rolls easier. The arm mounts to the original mounting points and is designed to use m3 screws with countersunk washers but any m3 screw will work. It is angled out 60 degrees to line up with the extruder better and to give more clearance to access the card reader. Will be designing a filament sensor mount that lines up but for the time being I am using without. It holds up very well to my stress tests,I think this was the 4th version I created because the others failed the stress test.
The roller I redesigned to be able to print without supports and uses a square insert to join together. can be joined without glue, I had to hammer it together as its such a tight fit so keep that in mind, it will fit. Print 2 roller halves and the insert.
If you have any requests for modifications please let me know, thank you and feel free to share your makes if you use this spool holder.
Also if you would like a custom faceplate for it please let me know thank you
I had these remotes for all my fans but kept knocking them off they wall as they were only secured with a 3M strip.
2 screws to secure to wall. The model holds the remote with a friction hold as it's a nice fit to hold in place but still easy to pull out if need to.
This is a lamp that used a lot of online and freely available stl's but i cannot cite them all as the project was finished a long time ago. i only made the body of the lamp in tinker CAD. Then I decorated with the turtle accoutrement. The body allows for the sensor of those commonly purchased led ribbons to poke through into the helmet of shredder. the post is so you can look as many loops of the ribbon as you want without having to cut it. just wrap it end over end and run it though the hole in the base. the back is open for the led module. The canister cylinder was the inception for the project. The link for that specific clear tube as designed and printed was for this cylinder https://saeproducts.com/store/Clear-Gun-Tubes-GUN-GRN.html .To create the smokie look i used spray glue to stretch out cotton balls onto a 2 liter soda/pop bottle. i cut a sheet out from the bottle and used a sheet of paper as a diffuser, rolled these two together and into the main cylinder. after that its up to you. best wishes.
I designed a simple remote holder for a Chinese diesel heater remote control to have next to the bed in my camper. It allows you to work all the buttons without removing the remote once you remove the black plastic slider cover on the remote. No support needed when printed rectangular bottom down.
This is a model of 8 Tallet, a building designed by BIG in Denmark. I used it in my Architecture class to show my students how cutting part of the building (missing piece) led to more sun in the patio. This is important considering the cold weather the building is located in and it's latitude - I showed it in the big sunpath and it was a cool class I thing. Anyways, hope it's useful to anyone.
If you'd like to tip me, here's a link: https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=9KPGTBJAAGUZ6&no_recurring=0&item_name=ANNA%27S+THINGIVERSE¤cy_code=USD
Adapter for installing a cooler with a 115x mount on an A4 motherboard, minimum size, screwed with original bolts, I used 4*20 mm screws to mount the intel cooler, with a 6.5mm wide cap
A portable mini loom. The spacing for the warp is 5mm, but I plan to create variations, put an requests in sizing in the comments.
For the comb, It really helps to sand down any hard edges or stringing to reduce the chance for fibres to catch on the comb.
What to Print
- 2 x Side A
- 2 x Side B
- 1 X Center Support
- 1 X Shed Stick
- 1 X Comb
- At least one Shuttle, but you can print multiple to make changing different colours easier
I have included holes for 6 M3 x18mm screws to help keep the loom together, though the loom holds well on it's own.
Copy of Red Queen by dbostian but I modified the right plate to include an arrow key cluster. This removed right shift, control, and the other accessory key besides the right control.
A variation on the 120mm fan filter with grille that SrDitamus made: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5361019
I split this into two pieces to make it easier to print without supports and to allow for different size filters.
Yee can hawl it yerself
Based on the puddin's fab shop 1981 Ford Courier U haul "box truck"
It's not perfect, but it will do in my eyes.